In the ever-evolving gastronomic landscape of London, where innovation meets tradition, establishing a culinary venue that resonates with both locals and visitors alike is no small feat. Cornus, the brainchild of renowned restaurateurs David O’Connor and Joe Mercer Nairne, emerges as a refreshing addition to the city’s diverse dining options. Located on the rooftop of The Ice Factory at Eccleston Yards, just a brief walk from the bustling London Victoria, Cornus offers a tantalizing blend of picturesque views and exquisite cuisine crafted by executive chef Gary Foulkes, who previously earned accolades at the Michelin-starred Angler.
The journey to launching Cornus did not occur overnight. O’Connor and Nairne faced numerous challenges in their quest for a second restaurant after the success of Medlar, which has garnered a loyal following over the past decade. The duo encountered setbacks that included rising operational costs, the effects of Brexit, and a pandemic that reshaped the hospitality landscape. The pair describes their experience as almost Sisyphean—constantly rolling the boulder of opening a new venue uphill only for it to roll back down. “Every time we thought we were making progress, life presented us with another obstacle,” Nairne recounts. However, their persistence bore fruit when they partnered with Grosvenor, allowing them to translate their vision into a tangible reality.
Choosing the rooftop space served more than just aesthetic purposes; it was a calculated decision aimed at providing a distinctly luxurious setting in an area that previously lacked high-end rooftop dining experiences. The location, housed within a beautifully converted 19th-century warehouse, reflects a dedication to both ambiance and accessibility. Diners can enjoy sweeping views of Belgravia, reinforcing the sense of exclusivity that Cornus seeks to offer. The rapid transformation of the space, completed in just six months, showcases an agility that contrasts with the longer development periods often seen in the industry. “We were fortunate to work with a space that had inherent charm, and we simply built upon that,” Nairne explains.
What makes Cornus stand out is not merely its location or its stylish decor, but its steadfast commitment to gastronomy. With a focus on ingredient-led dishes, Foulkes emphasizes the importance of seasonal British and European produce, echoing the principles that anchored Medlar’s success. For Foulkes, great cooking begins with sourcing premium ingredients—what he calls “the backbone of a dish.” One shining example is the native lobster creation paired with hand-rolled spaghetti, which exemplifies the kitchen’s sustainability ethos by utilizing every part of the lobster—quintessentially reflecting the respect they have for their culinary resources.
On the menu, patrons can also delight in inventive dishes such as seabass tartare paired with oyster cream, green apples, and shiso, highlighting Chef Foulkes’ skill in balancing flavor and texture seamlessly. The selection also showcases elements like Hubert Lacoste’s exquisite tomatoes dressed in cherry juice combined with soft curd, each item contributing to a vibrant representation of modern British cuisine.
A Self-Funded Culinary Endeavor
In a landscape dotted with externally funded ventures, Cornus subscribes to a different ethos. Fully self-financed by O’Connor and Nairne, the restaurant stands as a testament to their unwavering belief in their culinary vision. This financial independence allows them to maintain creative control, but it also imposes the constraints of working within a tight budget—something they actively embraced particularly given their past experiences with Medlar, which they liken to a “shoestring-budget endeavor.” O’Connor explains, “While we’ve benefitted from the help of friends and loyal patrons, the core of our operation is self-reliance.”
Nevertheless, self-funding in today’s volatile market comes with its challenges, particularly concerning inflation and supply chain disruptions. “There are days when everything feels uphill, but we remind ourselves to focus on the bigger picture,” Nairne asserts, underscoring their long-term perspective amidst immediate adversities.
With promising reception evident through five-star reviews and enthusiastic patron feedback, Cornus is well-positioned to carve out a niche in London’s competitive restaurant scene. Beyond the immediate focus on operational excellence, the team envisions expanding their outdoor offerings by 2025 to enhance the dining experience further. “Investing in our outdoor spaces is critical, but it is equally important to ensure our core team can deliver consistently,” Nairne remarks, highlighting their prioritization of quality over rapid expansion.
As Cornus settles into its new identity, it’s clear the duo’s ambition is not merely to join the ranks of London’s esteemed dining establishments, but to establish a lasting legacy rooted in food, wine, and memorable service. “We aim to become a staple in the culinary tapestry of London,” O’Connor concludes, resonating their core philosophy of creating robust experiences that transcend fleeting trends. With their self-described non-negotiable principles guiding every aspect of their operations, Cornus is forging a path that promises to be as illustrious as its spectacular rooftop views.
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