Nestled atop the Deutsche Bank Center in Manhattan’s Columbus Circle, Per Se has long stood as a paragon of fine dining excellence, masterminded by the illustrious Chef Thomas Keller. Since its grand opening in 2004, the restaurant has earned numerous accolades, including three coveted Michelin stars every year since 2006. This gourmet establishment is not merely a restaurant; it is a culinary journey that reflects the essence of Keller’s famed The French Laundry, enticing food enthusiasts and critics alike. Yet, despite its illustrious background, Per Se has recently come under scrutiny for its mounting prices, elaborate decor, and an air of exclusivity that some argue alienates the average diner. With a lofty Chef’s Tasting Menu priced at $925 per person, the conversation around accessibility in haute cuisine emerges.
The Human Element: Employee Loyalty in an Unforgiving Industry
What sets Per Se apart is not just its award-winning menu but also its remarkable work culture, which fosters employee loyalty in an industry notoriously rife with high turnover rates. A staggering 79.6% turnover has plagued the culinary sector since 2013, driven primarily by discontent among workers. However, more than a quarter of Per Se’s 112-person team has been with the restaurant for over five years, showcasing a commitment that is rarely seen elsewhere. Employees such as Kimberly Suzuka, promoted to Guest Relations Manager, express a strong sense of attachment to the restaurant, due in large part to Keller’s unique culture of mentorship and opportunities for advancement.
Executive pastry chef Elaine Smyth’s journey from chef de partie to her current role illustrates how effectively Per Se invests in its staff. Through mentorship and experiential scholarships, staff members are given chances not just to improve their skills, but also to explore the broader culinary world—an asset in a highly competitive field. This investment in human capital fosters a sense of community, where each member feels empowered and essential to the restaurant’s mission.
Mentorship and Growth: A Graduate School for Chefs
A significant feature of Per Se’s ethos lies in its commitment to nurturing talent. The kitchen environment functions akin to a graduate school for aspiring chefs, where mentorship is a cornerstone of the experience. Employees like Chad Palagi, who returned as chef de cuisine, speak passionately about their roles as mentors. In the heart of this fine dining institution, young culinarians are not merely employees but future kitchen leaders, receiving hands-on training and real-world experience. These passionate exchanges cultivate a strong internal culture, where knowledge-sharing thrives.
The development of culinary masterpieces at Per Se is a collaborative effort, where ideas are exchanged, and innovations discussed. From the initial sourcing of ingredients to the final plating, each step is a team effort marked by communication and harmony among station chefs. The daily menu changes according to what is seasonal and fresh, which requires a synchronized dialogue within the kitchen—a challenging but rewarding endeavor that emphasizes quality over predictability.
Ingredients and Sourcing: A Focus on Quality
At Per Se, the philosophy is simple: quality ingredients yield extraordinary results. With ingredients like truffles, caviar, and foie gras considered staples, the restaurant not only elevates its food offerings but also cultivates strong relationships with vendors. Regularly inviting suppliers to train staff adds a personal touch to the culinary experience, bridging the gap between product and chef. It is a synergy that celebrates food stories, enhancing the entire dining experience.
The restaurant team dives deep into the nuances of flavor profiles and cooking techniques during menu development, fostering a culture of shared learning. This meticulous attention to detail does not merely serve the goal of maintaining high culinary standards; it also promotes a familial bond among the staff, nurturing a shared passion for the art of cooking.
A Lasting Legacy: The Alumni Impact
The impact of Per Se extends beyond its immediate operation. The nurturing environment has yielded a cadre of alumni who are making significant waves in the culinary world. Notable former staff members are carving out their own paths and establishing prestigious dining establishments, reflecting the restaurant’s legacy. Restaurants like Chez Noir, led by Jonny Black, and Thai Diner, founded by couple Matt Danzer and Ann Redding, showcase how the experience gained at Per Se empowers chefs to explore their creativity and express their culinary identities.
With each dish that graces the Per Se menu, the influence of Chef Keller’s commitment to excellence is felt far and wide. The restaurant’s approach transcends the conventional boundaries of dining, focusing on building a robust culinary community that is bound by a singular mission: to redefine and elevate the dining experience. As the landscape of fine dining continues to evolve, Per Se remains not just a restaurant but a vital force that shapes the future of cuisine.
Leave a Reply