Alaska is a realm of breathtaking landscapes and unparalleled wildlife, drawing adventurers from all over the globe in search of its iconic features—glaciers, whales, and bears. Yet, among these majestic animals, bears can be elusive, making any opportunity to observe them in their natural habitat particularly compelling. This article chronicles an excursion from Ketchikan to Neet’s Bay, a trip designed with the promise of bear sightings and the thrill of untamed Alaskan wilderness.
Setting off from Ketchikan, I joined a group of eager explorers disembarking from the opulent Regent’s Seven Seas Explorer. The atmosphere buzzed with anticipation as we squeezed onto a bus destined for a nearby dock, where Adventure Ketchikan Tours awaited us with open arms. Boarding a sleek jet boat, we embarked on an hour-long journey to our bear-watching site. This cruise was more than just a means of transportation; it was an integral part of our experience. The remote location we were heading to—a bay where a whitewater stream converged with the ocean—had been carefully selected for its abundant salmon runs, which are a staple in the diet of local bears.
Our guide filled the air with not only fascinating facts about the wildlife we hoped to see but also insights into the rich tapestry of Alaskan history. Glancing at the rugged coastal landscape, I learned about the U.S. Navy installations hidden in the Behm Canal, which utilizes advanced technology to monitor submarine noise, a stark contrast to the natural wonders surrounding us. As we sped across the water, every ripple in the sea and splash of the boat heightened our eagerness to encounter the elusive bears.
Upon reaching the Neet’s Bay Hatchery dock, the thrill was palpable as we stepped onto land, following a narrow, muddy trail leading to the stream where bears were known to fish. Along the path, evidence of the bears’ presence was stark—trees bore claw marks from bears climbing to reach their favorite vantage points, and small dens hinted at where they rested. It was exhilarating to walk this path, fully aware that we were entering a territory dominated by these magnificent creatures.
To my pleasant surprise, we didn’t have to wait long. At the water’s edge, a pair of robust black bears, approximately 350 pounds each, loomed midstream, their eyes scanning the flowing water for salmon. A safety rope limited our proximity to about 20 yards, providing a secure barrier while allowing us to witness their natural behavior. July through September are prime months for observing these bears, as they gorge on spawning salmon, seemingly oblivious to the human spectators nearby. However, our guide remained vigilant, equipped with bear spray—an essential precaution in such wild habitats.
Although we were met with only four bear sightings during our hour-long stay, the experience was still unforgettable—not without its previous frustrations, of course. On a past trip, I’d endured a long, fruitless vigil where not a single bear graced my view. Yet here, just when my optimism began to wane, one bear caught a fish, showcasing an impressive and brutal hunting skill. The bear dragged its catch up onto a rock, where it began to tear into its meal, displaying both the animal’s efficiency and the harsh reality of survival in the wild. Interestingly, black bears often practice selective fishing, opting for female salmon laden with eggs for the richest nutrition.
Nestled in this stunning setting is the Neet’s Bay Hatchery itself, which plays a pivotal role in sustaining salmon populations. Here, workers diligently harvest and fertilize eggs, nurturing the young fish to ensure their survival against predators and environmental challenges. The protective measures taken at this hatchery are vital to the health of the local ecosystem—and perhaps also to the bears that rely on these fish for sustenance.
As we concluded our bear-watching adventure and made our way back to Ketchikan, the sea lions basking on rocky outcrops were our only companions, reminding us of the diverse wildlife inhabiting these Alaskan waters. Although I did not encounter whales on this trip, my heart was full as I reflected on the promise granted by the bears and the beauty of nature all around me.
Ultimately, this excursion was more than just a bear sighting; it was a profound experience deeply rooted in Alaska’s wild beauty. Surrounded by majestic trees, flowing rivers, and the promise of nature’s relentless drive, I found solace away from the bustling world. Afterward, a hot beverage and a change of clothes awaited, capping off a successful day of exploration. The memory of the black bears, their quiet power and grace, would linger long after my return to civilization, a reminder of the untamed wilderness that thrives in these northern lands.
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