Nestled in the Taiwan Strait, Kinmen Island serves as a poignant reminder of the geopolitical tensions that have persisted between Taiwan and China for decades. Once a frontline military outpost, today it witnesses a remarkable juxtaposition of its storied past and nascent tourism industry. The island is now home to several cafes, including one run by local entrepreneur Zhang Zhong Jie, which occupies a former military fortification, surrounded by remnants of heavy artillery. The rusting tanks that line the entrance symbolically represent both the heavy toll of conflict and the resilience of the island’s people. With only six miles separating Kinmen from mainland China, the island exists in a unique liminal space—a cultural crossroads haunted by history yet alive with potential.
As a vital lifeline for local businesses, Chinese tourists were once a mainstay for Kinmen’s economy since the café’s opening in 2018. Zhang recalls a time when busloads of mainland visitors swarmed the island, drawn in by its historical significance and culinary offerings. However, the atmosphere began to shift dramatically after August 2019, when Beijing imposed restrictions on individual travelers to Taiwan amid rising political tensions. With the COVID-19 pandemic adding further obstacles, tour groups were also banished from visiting the island, leaving local business owners grappling with the repercussions of a declining customer base.
The dual crises of suspended tourism and the pandemic have forced locals into a precarious position. Residents had built their livelihoods on the promise of a robust tourism sector reliant on visitors from mainland China. Zhang highlighted the difficulties faced by Kinmen’s residents as revenue plummeted: “We’ve not had mainland tourists for years… the tourism industry is significantly impacted.” The stakes are high for Kinmen’s economy, which previously enjoyed an infusion of nearly $200 million annually from Chinese tourists.
The struggle to adapt has been felt by many on the island, as businesses scramble to redirect their focus in a rapidly changing landscape. The initial optimism surrounding a post-pandemic rebound has proven elusive. Tour operations that once thrived have now morphed into efforts aimed at exporting products to mainland China and beyond, a strategy adopted by an array of entrepreneurs, including Beddy Chang, who ran her noodle shop on the island. Unsurprisingly, these changes have introduced a new set of challenges, complicating the already fragmented economic landscape.
However, some residents, like Wu Zeng Yun, CEO of the Kinmen-Matsu Joint Services Center, see the situation through a different lens. He posited that the decrease in tourist activity might be interpreted as a punitive measure by Beijing, a tactic designed to exert influence over Taiwan. This view reflects a reality where geopolitical tensions heavily dictate local businesses’ fates, leaving them exposed to external forces beyond their control.
As Kinmen attempts to re-establish connections with its previous tourist base, peculiar incidents—such as the tragic deaths of two Chinese citizens during a maritime collision—have fostered even more unease. This collision has exacerbated tensions, further complicating the delicate navigation of tourism relations. In a climate that remains fraught with risk, the re-emergence of Chinese visitors to Kinmen has been slow and tenuous.
Despite some positive developments, such as the first group of mainland tourists arriving in September 2023, skepticism looms among the local populace. Guides like Chen Hua Sheng express hope but remain wary that Kinmen’s tourism landscape may never revert to its previous glory. Amid all these changing dynamics, residents must reconcile their historical identity with the realities of modern life, forever marked by the shadow of chronic conflict.
Although Kinmen Island’s tourism industry has experienced significant setbacks, the spirit of resilience endures amid adversity. Business owners are adapting, but the path forward remains riddled with uncertainties. The delicate balance of engaging with a historically complex relationship while nurturing an emergent tourism industry places Kinmen in an intricate web of economic and geopolitical interplay. As the world evolves, Kinmen’s community continues to cultivate hope for a brighter future, one where the tides of conflict can recede, allowing for rejuvenated connections and an enriched cultural tapestry. In this challenging but promising landscape, Kinmen stands at a crossroads, forever shaped by history but looking toward a future built on resilience and hope.
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